-OUTDOOR RECREATION AND BIODIVERSITY ON-
Rocks and Rapids: Clinch Valley Geography and Geology
This itinerary is designed for rock-hounds, or really for anyone who is interested in the remarkable geology of the Clinch Valley. The Clinch Valley is unique since it straddles two physiographic provinces - or regions with unique physical geography - the Appalachian Plateau and the Valley and Ridge. Geology on the Clinch is much more than just rocks, though: the rugged topography created by our region's rocks allows for scenic vistas, raging waterfalls, and pastoral valleys in between. Use this suggested itinerary to plan your own two- or three-day trip to see the geology of the Clinch firsthand. (Please note: the businesses and organizations featured in this itinerary are not formally associated with this initiative and do not directly endorse this guide.)
Day 1: High on the Plateau
1.) Town of Wise
Begin your trip in the town of Wise, Virginia, a small mountain town home to the University of Virginia's College at Wise. Plan to spend your first night at the Inn at Wise, a recently renovated, historic hotel located in the heart of downtown. Use the Inn as a base of operations for the first day of this trip, which will take you high on the headwaters of the Clinch Valley atop the Appalachian Plateau. (Photo by Skye Mathaler; "Wise Couny Courthouse distributed under a CC BY-SA 3.0 license.)
2.) Coeburn Mountain Road
Begin your trip into the Clinch Valley by traveling Coeburn Mountain Road out of downtown Wise. This route descends into the valley by hugging the lip of the Appalachian Plateau as it falls away to the town of Coeburn below.
The Appalachian Plateau, home to the Town of Wise, is actually a high, elevated yet relatively flat-topped landform that extends from Alabama all the way north to Pennsylvania. The rocks forming the plateau - mostly sandstone and limestone - were formed hundreds of million of years ago when the region was at the floor of a shallow, tropical sea. Around 300 million years ago, our continent collided with modern-day Africa, and the resulting pressure uplifted these rocks (really the remains of ancient seabeds) to the plateau we see today.
From vantage points along the descent into Coeburn, you can see the Town of Coeburn itself, the wooded hillsides of the Jefferson National Forest above town, and the parallel ridges of the Valley and Ridge Province of Virginia in the distance. On a clear day, you may even be able to see Whitetop Mountain, the second-highest peak in the state and located some 50-60 miles away on the other side of I-81.
3.) Guest River Gorge
A key feature of the Plateau is that it is what scientists call "dissected," meaning that streams and rivers have eroded deep canyons and gorges in its steep-sided face as they make their way to valleys below.
The Guest River Gorge is one of these special places. The Gorge is located just off of VA-72 south of Coeburn and is actually a developed recreation area in the Jefferson National Forest. The Guest River itself is a tributary of the Clinch that forms northwest of Wise, near the Kentucky border, and flows south and east through Coeburn, eventually falling off of the Plateau through an incredible, five-mile-long gorge.
In older days, this gorge formed one of the most direct routes into the valley to the east, and so a railroad line was built to haul coal and timber off of the Plateau to more developed regions beyond. Today, though, this rail line has been converted into an incredibly scenic, multi-use trail for hikers and bikers. One can take the trail south into the gorge from the USDA Forest Service parking area, through an early 1900s-era tunnel, and across a trestle with scenic views of the river and sandstone cliffs eroded into the Plateau by the ever-present force of the river.
4.) Little Stony National Recreation Trail
After hiking or biking at the Gorge, head over to Little Stony Falls to see a much more intimate example of the power of water at work in central Appalachia. Little Stony Falls, one of the most photographed waterfalls in Virginia, is a sheer drop over an overhanging rock ledge as Little Stony Creek drops off of the Plateau. Beyond being incredibly scenic, the falls are also a popular swimming spot in warmer months - the perfect place to cool off after a long hike at the Gorge.
The same forces that created the Guest River Gorge are at work here, but why is Little Stony Gorge narrower? The answer again lies in water. Since Little Stony Creek has less flow than the river, that means that its gorge is a bit more narrow, almost a chute in places as the creek hurries to meet the Clinch River some 3 miles south. Like the Guest River Gorge, Little Stony provides a fantastic overview of Plateau geology, as well as the plants and animals that are specialized to life on vertical cliffs and bluffs.
Although most folks only visit the popular upper falls, it is possible to hike downstream if you're still in the mood for walking and see a series of two other sets of falls. Even farther downstream, the creek gets more scenic and the gorge gets higher, until the trail terminates at Hanging Rock Recreation Area 2.7 miles below the upper falls. A guide to this trail can be found here.
5.) Town of Coeburn
After hiking and viewing the falls, head into the Town of Coeburn for food, shops, and more. The town boasts several restaurants, including several fast food options and a Japanese restaurant for those with a bigger appetite. Most restaurants are located near the Food City on US 58-Alt just west of Exit 1. Several shops and restaurants are also located downtown, with the Primitive Peddler located just east of downtown and Exit 2 on US 58-Alt.
If you're in town on a Friday evening, check out Lay's Hardware for great local music.
6.) Pathfinders Outdoor Adventures (Paddling)
After lunch, follow US 58-Alt west to the City of Norton, Virginia's smallest independent city. Located at the east end of downtown is Pathfinders Outdoor Adventures, a local outfitter specializing in canoe and kayak trips in the region. Check out the outfitter for other local information, or hit them up for a paddling trip on one of the region's five high-elevation lakes, each nestled in unique, "hanging valleys" (high-elevation valleys located above steep stream gradients below) on the Appalachian Plateau.
7.) High Knob Lookout Tower
End your day the right way with a sunset trip to High Knob Tower. At nearly 4,200 feet above sea level, High Knob is one of the highest points in the entire Clinch watershed and has quite possibly the best view anywhere in the Clinch Valley. The tower is conveniently accessed via a short, handicapped-accessible trail from a parking area off of USFS Road 238.
The view from High Knob is an incomparable vista encompassing both scenic beauty and an incredible geologic overview of the central Appalachians. To the north, the Appalachian Plateau and its coal mines appear visible well into Kentucky. On the northern horizon, the linear ridge of Pine Mountain - the lip of a unique "thrust fault" of rock pushed westward during the Appalachians' infancy - rises to form the Virginia-Kentucky line. To the south, the parallel ridges of the Ridge and Valley (many the high arcs of folded rock layers) become apparent, with the Blue Ridge beyond. On an exceptionally clear day, it is possible to see three state high points from the tower: Black Mountain, KY; Mount Rogers, VA; and the Clingman's Dome area of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park (TN).
Perhaps most interestingly, though, is the view directly to the west. The sharp dip of Powell Valley appears just below the High Knob Summit. This valley - which forms the famous overlook on US 23 just west of Norton - is formed from a geological feature called an anticline, or a dome-like structure of upward-folded rocks. But wait...how can upward-folded rocks form a valley? Over millions of years, erosion has eaten away the limestone core of this anticline, leaving the low valley and surrounding cliffs that give Powell Valley its famous scenery. Students at UVa-Wise have developed an interactive guide to the views from High Knob that allows you to learn more about the region's fascinating geology and the natural history of the features seen from the summit.
After checking out the Knob, head down to Norton or Wise for dinner and return to the Inn at Wise, resting up for Day 2 of this itinerary.